Spot found, genetics selected, plantlets planted. The vegetative phase, also known as the growth phase, is underway. This is the time when the plant gains green mass, forms more shoots, which will be covered with flowers during the flowering phase. During growth, bushes are pruned and bent what is called plant training. All this is done so that during the next phase, i.e. flowering, the plant produces as many flower buds as possible. Here is some useful information on how to deal with this and how to feed our buds during both phases of life, that is, how to grow cannabis outdoors - part two
For part one of our outdoor series of Green Guides, see T U T A J
Nutrition
Of great importance is the type of substrate used. If it is a mixture (bought or made yourself) rich in nutrients, fertilization in the first weeks can be limited to the administration of rooting. On how to prepare the soil and what to water it with to ensure proper development of the roots and the whole plant, you will read in the text The foundation of robust plants - substrate and well-developed roots.
When growing under the sun, nutrient-rich soil is a must. It reduces the number of visits to the resting place to feed our kids. During the growth phase, care should be taken to provide adequate nitrogen (N) and to add rooting agent to the watering in the first weeks, and it is always worth adding vitamins and amino acids.
For full-season varieties, flowering begins in August, depending on the variety it will be the beginning, or the second half of the month. Autoflowering varieties enter this stage after about five weeks - also depends on the variety. How do you know it's already? First of all, the flower ovaries and the first white hairs will appear. You should then, immediately start feeding the flowering medium. At this point, we switch to feeding the plants primarily with phosphorus(P) and potassium(K) and stop feeding nitrogen. For the first three to four weeks, it is worth at least a few times to water the bushes with P/K fertilizer in a ratio of 13/14, this way the plant will form inflorescences faster.
In the following weeks, without stopping to give PK, you can apply one of the many currently available cannabis flowering enhancers or so-called Boosters. They increase the weight of the tops.
RADA - when applying fertilizer in outdoor cultivation, give it more than the manufacturer recommends. Atmospheric conditions such as rain and morning dew regularly wash out the soil. The dose can be exceeded even by double.
About two weeks before felling, the plant should be flushed out of fertilizers by watering it with water alone, or with water with an agent to flush unnecessary elements from the plant.
When feeding your kids, giving them macronutrients (N,P,K) it is also worth adding micronutrients such as manganese, iron, molybdenum or magnesium.
(Easy Sativa in a 20 l. pot.)Training - increasing yield by manipulating the plant
In order for plants to produce as many inflorescences as possible, they need to be pruned and bent. These procedures are called plant training. The two basic types of training of plants grown under the cloud are FIM and LST. In order to maximize yield, it is recommended to use both methods simultaneously.
FIM (Fuck I Missed) - this technique involves pruning the main shoot so that the two branches directly below the cutting point become main shoots. This method can also be used on lateral branches to make the bush grow as wide as possible.
Green Tip: any garden work that stresses the plant (bending, pruning) is best done shortly before dusk. This will speed up regeneration and dealing with stress
LST (Low Stress Training) - this technique is aimed at two things that complement each other. In my opinion, it is important to understand why we specifically bend the plant, what processes take place in it, that not only the main peaks are huge, but most look like they would be the main ones and are of similar mass, because it is not only access to light that is at issue. But first a few words about the technique itself. Once the bush is of the right size, we bend the main stem so that it grows parallel to the ground (see figure). This procedure will lead to two beneficial consequences for the grower.
First, all the branches will be exposed to light, but in my opinion, more important is the effect associated with the hormones produced by the plant - auxins. There are several types of them, and their action is manifold and sometimes quite complicated so I will simplify it all a bit. As most of you probably know, an untrained cannabis plant produces one main peak that is definitely larger than the others. Why does this happen? Responsible for this are auxins, which "tell" the plant which inflorescence is the highest (read: has the best conditions) and this is the one that is treated best, the plant devotes the most energy to the production of just this peak, so it is the largest. In simple terms, if the tips of all branches are at the same height, each will be treated by the plant as the main one.
When to train? Full-season bold until the end or beginning of the second half of July, depending on the variety. Automatics until about the fifth week.
(LST training scheme)
Green Tip: any work related to bending, stretching or bending, do when the plant is slightly dry, try to avoid these activities when the bush is well watered. The stems of a plant deprived of water for several days are much more flexible and harder to damage such as breaking. A hydrated plant is stiffer and is easily damaged
Most common problems
Outdoor cultivation presents numerous challenges caused by factors beyond our control. The most common of these are overdrying or overflowing, animals or slugs lurking in the bushes, windstorms, etc. The ways to deal with all of these vary, here are a few:
Too wet or dry ground
In this case, most depends on the chosen location. While drought can be dealt with by increasing the number of visits to the garden, too much moisture in the substrate can already be a bigger problem. If such a situation was anticipated and the plants are buried in pots or bags, then the matter is taken care of by changing the spot (if it is too wet despite the pot). Otherwise, you have to wait for the mercy of nature. Signs of overdrying / overwatering are pale and floppy leaves.
Forest creatures
The number of forest animals increases in direct proportion to the distance from the city or built-up areas, which means that the more desolate the spot, the more often roe deer, deer and other wild boars stroll there. When the bushes are still tiny snails are quite a problem. To prevent them from getting to the plant, it is enough to pile up a circle of salt at a certain distance. How to make it so that the salt holds as much as necessary I leave to your creativity. Both in the initial and throughout the later life cycle, plants are threatened by deer or other large animals, which can trample, over-bite or eat the bush.
The solutions that give the best protection against this type of situation are two. The first is to purchase wildlife repellents, which can be purchased at garden, farmers' and similar stores. Use only those that are made on the basis of urine and other predator scents, and do not harm the environment. You can pour it on a cloth and leave it nearby. The dose posted on the package is good to exceed several times. The second way is a discreet and not high fence, made of materials that will camouflage (such as green wire). Using both ways simultaneously increases your chances.
Wind
The next issue is all kinds of storms, hail and gale force winds. They come unexpectedly and can cause great damage. It's worth protecting yourself from their effects in advance. Throwing a bamboo stick along the main stem, tying it to it, and then tying all the other branches to it takes care of the problem. After major storms and windstorms, it's worth taking a look at the spot to see if everything is ok.
Mildew
Toward the end of the season, when the weather is no longer so favorable, mold problems can occur. Inspect your plants regularly, the more compact the flowers, the greater the risk of mold.
The mold fungus always comes out from inside the flowers, near the stem. When you see it on the outside, it is certain that the entire top is infected at that point, up to the stem.
You can buy sprays against gray mold, which most often attacks cannabis In this case, it is necessary to remember the withdrawal period, i.e. the time that must elapse before the agent is no longer in the plant. For more information on gray mold, see our article "Mildew - what is it, how to avoid and fight it?".
We should remember to respect nature. If we take care of nature it will repay us. When visiting gardens, try to interfere with nature as little as possible, do not litter, leave nothing behind or interfere heavily with the surrounding landscape. We are guests at the spots, so let's behave properly.
